I have written this guide not only as an expert but as a fellow plant enthusiast. I have split this guide into two key parts; ‘How to care for your houseplants’ and my ‘Top 100 Houseplants for Your Urban Jungle’. The first part will unsurprisingly focus on how to care for your houseplants. I have included a range of easy-to-follow guidance, hints and tips, and have even debunked some misinformation about keeping them. I have also cut through a lot of conflicting information found in guide books and social media channels. In the second part I have included my top 100 houseplants to create your very own urban jungle. I have characterised these houseplants into three categories based on their maintenance needs; starter, intermedia and difficult. This will help you to select which one to buy or grow. My idea of an ideal houseplant is one that is evergreen, has vibrant foliage and is relatively straightforward to care for, most of which apply to my recommendations.  That being said, let's begin our tour of the botanical world.

Chapter 1 Introduction

Why adopt a houseplant?

Plants form the basis of all land-based ecosystems on Earth. Plants soak up carbon from the atmosphere and turn it into a huge plethora of usable things. Such things include food, compounds used in medicines, fabrics, materials used in construction and so much more. Even long dead plants through coal have powered our society for generations. When plants are big enough and are grouped together in sufficiently large enough numbers, like in rainforests they can even create clouds from their collective breath. They use sunlight, a bit like solar panels to power photosynthesis, converting a gas that we breathe out as a waste product into physical objects including their stems, leaves and roots. Plants are incredible lifeforms and can help us to fight the climate crisis. Although recent estimates have placed 40% of all plants under risk from climate change. For some, these magic things adorn our homes.

Houseplants are fast becoming popular. This was already a trend emerging in the late teens (2018+), which was amplified by the coronavirus pandemic of the early 20s. During this time many sought to improve their homes to help them through those challenging days. With the uptake in plants in our homes, many also sought to understand them and how to care for them. Keeping plants not only distracts us from our day-to-day lives but they have been shown to improve our mental well-being, boost our productivity and clean our air. We all deep down have a primordial connection with nature and having some houseplants in our home keeps us in touch with that connection. One particular generation which has adopted the greatest number of plants are the millennials. This could be due to the news bombarding us on the climate crisis or due to the trend in long-term renting where pets generally aren’t allowed. 

I can say with confidence that keeping houseplants has helped with my mental well-being particularly during the pandemic. They provide me with a means of escape through a pleasant daily ritual. Without them, my home looks incredibly bland. Plants have been demonstrated to promote a feeling of serenity in some. Seeing them grow, flower and produce mini-versions of themselves gives me a sense of joy. 

Learning from personal experience

For me, my passion for plants came at an early age where my grandpa gave me a small plot of his garden to grow flowers. From there my interest in how these green leaves grew. After finishing school, I decided to study the science behind them, eventually gaining a doctorate in the subject. It wasn’t until fairly recently where I started my indoor jungle. I always used to prefer my plants on the outside until a chance visit to a supermarket changed my horticultural life. Out of the corner of my eye I saw these really cheap yet cheerful cute succulents. I bought the interestingly named hobbit jade plant (Crassula ovata ‘Hobbit’) off a whim and from there I just couldn’t stop myself. Now my houseplant collection is well over two hundred, and growing. This figure doesn’t include my outdoor collection!

I have certainly learnt a lot about keeping houseplants since living with them. After all, experience is the greatest teacher. One of the biggest learning curves I faced was knowing that sometimes a houseplant is just not suitable to live in your home. I really like the idea of keeping an elephant’s ear plant (Alocasia). However, my home wasn’t humid enough for it, and my bathroom has no window. Trial and error is the best method to use when it comes to plants. I have also learnt that there’s just some plants that I just cannot grow. From my experiences of growing houseplants and from my background as a plant scientist and horticulturist I have detailed practical, easy-to-follow advice for you in this book. I have also personally grown all plants featured in this book to give an honest review. Making mistakes is a part of any human endeavour and alongs you learn from them, that’s the key thing to remember. And I am not afraid to admit that I have indeed killed some of my houseplants.

Getting to know your plant is the best advice that I can offer any budding plant enthusiast. Knowing when they tend to get dry and when their leaves look stressed, will go much further than any app on your mobile. I do not have a favourite houseplant just like any parent with multiple children. I truly like them all equally. After all, if I didn’t, I wouldn’t have them in my home.   

Houseplants throughout the ages

People throughout the ages have brought plants into their homes to decorate them. Most of these plants would have been shrubby, fruit producing or flowering. The concept of a ‘houseplant’ wasn’t really a thing until the 20th century. Between the 1500s and 1900s the rich and powerful would go to long lengths to collect rare and unusual species from far and exotic locations. Such unusual plants include pineapples, oranges, lemons, grapes and various orchids. Some would even hire plant hunters to collect species unknown to science. Botanists and enthusiasts would also be involved with breading new and exciting varieties of plants. During this era plants were a thing to show off a person’s power and wealth. Up until the Victorian and Edwardian Eras, potted plants for your home first became popularised. Such plants as the Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), parlour palm (Chamaedorea elegans) and the Philodendron. To live in a dark and dusty Victorian home these plants had to be tough. 

Houseplants as we know them started to become popular in the 50s until the 70s. Many of the varieties that we can see today such as the Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) and Devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum). Alongside the post-war blocky concrete architecture of the 60s and 70s, plants were integral to the ‘hippie’ or Bohemian interior design alongside Macramé, psychedelic yellows and oranges, and bubble lamps. These styles are very much on trend as of the 2020s. From an item to show off one’s wealth to a stylish object, plants have been used to enhance our homes.

There’s a plant for everyone

There is truly a plant for everyone. There are an estimated 400,000 species of them currently known by science. Many more tens of thousands could be out there, waiting to be discovered. All these species have colonised all continents (except Antarctic) of the world and dominate a diverse range of ecosystems. This results in a huge assortment of plants to choose from. I have boiled down all this plant diversity into eight major categories of houseplants, which you can grow in your home.

Air plants

These strange, unworldly plants provide an usual touch to your home. They are often included in rocky displays and glass baubles. The unique feature of most air plants is they lack roots. They gain water through their highly absorbent leaves. Their leaves appear silvery when they are dry and instantly develop a sage green hue when they absorb water. They evolved this method of water collection to rapidly uptake water as soon as it becomes available. Most air plants come under the botanical name of Tillandsia, such examples include Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides), pink quill (Tillandsia cyanea) and the sky plant (Tillandsia ionantha). These air plants tend to grow on or around trees typically in the mountains, deserts and rainforests of South America and the Southern United States. These kinds of plants will grow well in bright indirect sunlight (see Chapter 2; Sunlight and your houseplants) with humid conditions. The wetter the environment the more heat they can handle.

Carnivorous 

What person doesn’t want a cool insect eating plant? These plants have evolved in nutrient-poor soil, typically in bogs. They get all their nutrient requirements from the dissolved remains of their captured insects. Carnivorous plants have colonised most parts of the world and come in a plethora of shapes, sizes and colours. Examples include the infamous pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea), Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) and the sundew (Drosera capensis). Some species of carnivorous plants in the wild have even been seen trapping and dissolving the remains of rodents, frogs and small birds. Some can even attract small mammals such as shrews to use their jars as toilets. From the faeces of shrews, the giant pitcher plant (Nepenthes rajah) can extract the nutrients needed for their growth. Carnivorous plants tend to grow well in indirect sunlight with damp nutrient-poor soil. They do not like being fed with fertiliser, and much prefer it if you let me remove the pesky flies in your home.

Climbing and trailing 

Though you may think that climbers and trailers are the same, they’re not. In their native habitat, climbing plants cling onto other plants, mostly trees. Whereas, trailing plants can either grow down from tree tops or creep along the ground in order to proliferate. These kinds of plants come from all around the world from rainforests to desserts. A climbing or trailing plant can enhance any shelve, bookcase or window in your home. Trailing houseplants can be grown in iconic bold metallic bowls or macramé style hanging baskets. Climbing houseplants are typically grown using moss or coir totem poles. They can also be grown as a trailer but their leaves won’t grow as large. Typical examples of climbers include the infamous Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) and the Devil's ivy (Epipremnum aureum). Example trailers include string-of-pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) and string-of-needles (Ceropegia Linearis). Climbers and trailers are generally easy to propagate from water cuttings. They are also straightforward to grow and tend to prefer indirect sunlight with moist soil.

Flowering plants

Flowering plants come relatively late to the evolutionary story of plants. They have evolved into an enormous range of shapes, sizes, colours and aromas or lack thereof. Plants evolved flowers to reproduce through pollinating insects such as bees, and in some cases birds and even mammals. Under UV light, (light that insects use to see) some flowers have developed landing strips to advertise that they want insects. White- and yellow-coloured flowers are also the brightest to insects. Flowers requiring the help of birds are generally red or orange and have long erect or droopy parts such as the bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae). Many of us have bought some flowers to celebrate or commemorate an occasion. In fact, the Victorians developed a complicated language of flowers known as floriography to pass on messages without vocalising them. Such examples include red roses that symbolise love and passion, whereas yellow carnations represented rejection by a loved one. 

Though these days the language of flowers has lost meaning, around the world people still buy millions of them to adorn their homes. Flowering houseplants are a fantastic introduction to caring for plants. They generally continue to flower if cared for correctly, so there is an obvious effect for people to observe. Flowering houseplants are much better than cut flowers, which only will last a week or two. Classic examples of flowering houseplants include the moth orchid (Phalaenopsis), peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii) and the flamingo plant (Anthurium andraeanum). Flowering uses a lot of energy and nutrients from plants so they may require fertiliser, and they generally prefer to grow in bright indirect sunlight with moist but well-draining soil.

Foliage plants

Foliage plants tend to come from tropical regions and are prized for their stunning, bold and vibrant patterns on their leaves. Such patterns include neon-coloured veins to blotches, spots, strips and dimpled textures. The leaves of some foliage plants can also come in black/dark purple, orange, pink or red leaves with green patterns. Foliage plants also come in a huge range of sizes suitable for any space. These iconic jungle plants include the prayer plants (Maranta leuconeura and Calathea orbifolia), dumbcane (Dieffenbachia amoena) and the arrowhead (Syngonium podophyllum). These plants generally form eye-catching centrepieces that can instantly add a touch of nature to your home. Foliage plants are highly popular and are the most commonly found houseplants in shops. They tend to require the most amount of maintenance compared to other groups. Foliage houseplants prefer moist well-draining soil with bright to indirect sunlight, and also benefit from elevated humidity levels. 

Shade tolerant 

Not everyone’s home is suitable for all common houseplants. Some of our homes are too dark for them but worry not there are options. However, shade tolerant plants do require more light than you probably think (see ‘Defining light levels’). Shade tolerant plants are generally found growing on a forest floor or hanging from just below a tree’s canopy. Prime examples of shade tolerant houseplants include the Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) and parlour palm (Chamaedorea elegans). The foliage of shade tolerant plants tend to have darker richer green leaves that are broader and thinner, maximising their light harvesting capacity. Placing these types of houseplants in direct sunlight will cause scorching and leaf bleaching. These plants can be placed in a range of areas around your home, not just on your window sills. Shade tolerant plants grow well in moist well-draining soil and mild humidity.  

Succulents and cacti

Succulents and cacti are amongst the most diverse plants on Earth. They form a huge range of unworldly forms and shapes. They make ideal potted plants that adorn many homes due to their hardiness, unusual growth and compact size. These kinds of plants typically grow in tough desert environments, and their thick leaves and stems have adapted to store water. Some succulents have even evolved to look like stones and dead twigs to avoid being eaten by predators. Whereas, cacti have taken to using weaponry, evolving long spiky thorns to harm their predators. Noticeable succulents and cacti include the dead plant (Euphorbia platyclada), stone plants (Lithops), African milk tree (Euphorbia trigona) and the Lemon Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii). Generally speaking, succulents require more water than cacti and both require bright direct sunlight. These houseplants characteristically don’t flower often and don’t produce a smell. Cacti tend to flower a couple of weeks after watering, as they do in their native desert conditions. 

Woody plants

In the outdoor world these plants would be a standard shrub. Some woody houseplants on sale are actually tolerant to the outdoor world particularly in the northern hemisphere. However, in our homes we keep them neatly trimmed and in order. Similar to foliage plants these houseplants can often add an instance of nature due to their size. Woody plants are very hardy and forgiving of some neglect, and come in a range of foliage forms and sizes. Prime examples of woody plants include the dragon tree (Dracaena marginata), long-leaf fig (Ficus binnendijkii) and the yucca (Yucca gloriosa). Some woody plants are even small trees such as the lemon (Citrus limon) and orange (Citrus x sinensis), which are ideal for a conservatory. Most woody houseplants originate from temperate regions of the world including forests. These plants tend to prefer indirect sunlight with moist but well-draining soil. 

Chapter 2 How to care for your houseplants

Introduction to plant husbandry

Caring for your houseplant can be a minefield. There is a great reservoir of information out there, which can often conflict or worse can be damn right bizarre as in the case of some viral videos on social media. Such videos include using egg yolk to add a glossy shine to your leaves (surely this would smell your house out), and violently shaking your houseplant to simulate wind. To be clear please do not do these to your plants. In my experience of growing houseplants, I frequently come across incorrect or vague labelling such as ‘green living foliage’. There are also mobile apps out there that claim to help you manage your houseplants by reminding you to water them. All this can make caring for your houseplants an absolute nightmare especially if you just want to know the basics. This part of the book will be your definitive guide to caring for your new beloved houseplants. I have endeavoured to boil down to the basics and have kept everything as clear as possible.

My initial advice to offer is to disregard all that conflicting, confusing and intimidating information that you may have picked up. Instead, the critical part of growing houseplants is to just get to know your plants as soon as you buy it from your local garden centre or shop. Place them in an area and they will soon let you know that they’re not happy. You’ll soon know when your houseplant needs water or if you have over-watered them. After all, trial and error has led to our understanding of most things.

When we proudly bring houseplants home, we don’t realise their origins and what they have adapted to over millions of years. Many houseplants have their origins in rainforests, requiring a constantly high level of humidity. Others have evolved in the driest of desserts, requiring strong bright sunlight with very little water. Each one of our homes has its own unique microclimate suited to each of our needs that can vary with each season. For instance, some prefer it cooler and darker, whereas others prefer it brighter and warmer. Some conditions of course may not be under our control like the positioning of our homes, or if we live near a large tree that cannot be cut down.

Placing plants into neat containers also naturally confines plants. Potted plants can no longer grow amongst the vast plain of soil, where they can extract as much as resources as they want or to engage with their primordial fungal partners – mycorrhizal fungi. Some gardeners out there may have heard of these wondrous microorgasms that boost plant health. As a result, houseplants and potted plants in general become highly dependent on us for their care. 

Plants after all just want to survive and will adapt to your home’s microclimate the best they can. If you provide the most ideal conditions to each of your houseplants, they will flourish. If your home is too dark your houseplants will bolt and grow quite leggy. If your home is too bright, they will modify their leaf size and have reduce levels of greenness in their leaves. Although their growth doesn’t look perfect, they have adapted to your home as best they can. 

If you want continual perfection in your houseplants, I would advise that you have a generous budget or to buy one of those faux houseplants. To a plant scientist like me they’re ever so slightly offensive to look at. Presuming that you don’t want either of those I will now take you through my hints and tips on how to care for your botanical treasures. Please note that any guidance for a specific plant will be listed in the next chapter.

Living houseplants naturally come with imperfections

Have you ever noticed that your houseplant has some yellowing or brown spots on its leaves? Well, these are just sometimes imperfections that don't actually harm your plant. 

What plant enthusiasts sometimes forget is that their houseplants are living things and sometimes they may have yellowing leaves, brown patches, slightly wonky growth and other imperfections. This is a part of the deal with keeping living houseplants.

Sometimes we put these plants on such a pedestal due to them being in our homes. After all these are living beings and are not unchanging ornaments. Whereas, we are more forgiving with outdoor plants, as we expect them to include imperfections due to the weather. Just remember these little imperfections cannot be helped, just like with people they age.

The readjustment period of your new houseplant

When bringing a houseplant home for the first time, you need to consider what is called the 'readjustment period' that houseplants will go through. This period is when your houseplant will start to adapt to living in your home.

When plants are grown in nurseries, they are grown in the most ideal conditions possible for them. Growers also tend to induce large vibrant growth and flowering. However, when you bring them into your home these conditions change, and somewhat differ from where they were brought up. This period is where the greatest number of issues can occur, i.e., yellowing of the leaves, leaf shedding and reduced flowering. Plants tend to do this in order to acclimatise to their new home. To help them through this transition, keep in as close conditions to where you had bought it, and most importantly of all read the label. Most good growers will include care instructions. As well as this, keep an eye out for early signs of stress. This readjustment period is similar to that faced by aquarium enthusiasts, where they introduce a new fish to their tank. Or to a cat owner who has recently moved, and needs to keep them in their new home for several weeks before letting them out. 

The system of naming plants

Have you ever wondered why plants are sometimes labelled using two names? These are just like a specific set of coordinates (latitude and longitude) on a map or a postcode/zip code. Botanical names (also known as scientific names) or binomial nomenclature as its full description goes, are specific to a certain plant formed of two names; ‘Genus’ followed by ‘species’. These two names are universally identifying a particular plant, no matter the language. This is why they are being used within this book.

This is unlike common names, where plants can have multiple names across different countries, regions and cultures. So, wherever you are or whatever language you speak, you can identify that given plant. This system was first developed in the 1700s by Carolus Linnaeus who lived in Uppsala in Sweden. 

An example of the confusion caused by common names includes the White Waterlily or ‘Nymphaea alba’, which has 15 different common names in English alone. This does not include the other 240 names in other languages. Another common example is the pepper. You can get bell peppers that are not spicy and come in green, red, yellow and orange. They belong to ‘Capsicum annum’. However, the pepper that some use on their food as a seasoning actually belongs to ‘Piper nigrum’. This does not include the chilli pepper which is also another form of Capsicum. Botanical names are also italicised to help people identify the use of Latin. 

When is a houseplant not a houseplant?

This may seem like one of the greatest philosophical questions ever asked by a plant enthusiast. However, what makes a houseplant is purely down to nifty marketing and how sensitive a plant is to temperature. Essentially all plants are outdoor plants. 

If a plant is not adapted to a certain condition they will not thrive, as simple as that. Plant enthusiasts in the northern hemisphere cannot grow tropical plants outside. But when people bring them into their homes they will. With this in mind some plants marked as houseplants can actually be grown outdoors as with some shrubby plants such as the paper plant (Fatsia japonica), climbers including English ivy (Hedera helix) or even the humble cyclamen (Cyclamen purpurascens). As a plant enthusiast novice, it is really difficult to identify these kinds of plants. Simply researching their full botanical names will certainly offer an indication. In my opinion there are three key features that make an ideal houseplant, no matter if they can survive being outside in Northern Europe. They are:

● Evergreen, keeping their leaves all the time.

● Have vibrant or interesting foliage.

● Forgiving, cannot be too fussy or sensitive to change. 

Flowers are great to have but generally houseplants will not flower for long. If you have selected a flowering houseplant purely down to its flower, like many who purchase an orchid you may become disappointed when it finishes flowering. Another thing to watch out for is if they lose their leaves in winter, known as deciduous plants. A prime example of a deciduous houseplant is the Sensitive Plant or Mimosa pudica. If they do, you will have a plant pot full of dirt to keep somewhere over the winter months. This may be fine for some but not for others especially if you are strapped for space.

Your choice of decorative plant pot matters

Did you know that the material of your decorative plant pots (also known as cachepots) can actually affect the growth of your houseplants? When I mention the term ‘decorative plant pot’ I’m referring to the plant pot used to add a bit of interior design to your urban jungle, not the inner plastic pot with holes at bottom that your plants come in from the shop. Though keeping your plants in these plastic pots is totally fine. Decorative plant pots add loads more creativity to your urban jungle, adding an element of interior design. As well as having a plethora of designs, colours and shapes you also have a wide range of materials to choose from including: ceramic, metal, plastic, fabric and even concrete.

Your choice of material for a plant pot can actually have an impact on your plants. For example, plastic and metal don't 'breathe', not allowing much air exchange to the roots. Yes, the roots of plants need air! Some plants don't mind but others do, particularly from the tropics that need their roots to dry a bit after watering. Generally ceramic plant pots are the most popular and most effective for houseplants allowing their roots to breath, with fabric baskets coming a close second. These are also fast becoming more fashionable.

Where to buy your houseplants?

There are many places to purchase a good quality houseplant. The most traditional place to buy your plants are from new your local garden centre, who should have experts on hand to help advise you on your purchase. Another good source is from known online retailers. Both online retailers and garden centres usually offer a guarantee with their plants. One surprising place to get great quality plants are from your supermarkets, DIY and discount superstores (variety stores). Though they tend to buy in batches so if you see a plant that you like, buy it. Your local independent garden shop, market stall or local swap shop are also fantastic places to purchase locally grown plants. Finally, if you have family and friends that grow their own, then ask them for a cutting or small plant. One place where I would advise caution is via online marketplaces. The quality of plants or cuttings can hugely vary and it can be a pain to rely on mixed reviews. My mantra is to keep to known names and locally grown plants.

What to look out for when buying a houseplant 

When buying a new houseplant, only choose those that are full, strong stems and leaves and look fresh, not unless you want to revive a plant from illness or damage. Things to avoid include limp growth, dead plant matter, brown or yellow spots or plants in full bloom. If you want flowers to last longer you want to select plants with lots of buds. 

Plants and your home

Don't forget to dust your houseplant

Leaves like anything else in your home can accumulate dust. This prevents them from growing. In the wild wind blows any debris of plant leaves. To remove dust from your leafy houseplants, gently wipe the leaves using a damp cloth or cotton pad. A dry duster will also work but ensure it hasn't been used alongside polishes or other chemicals as these can burn the leaves. You can also use a paint brush to remove debris or dead materials from small plants or cacti. If you cannot dust or wipe down your houseplant then give it a gently shake whilst blowing on it. This will remove the majority of dust. Don’t worry about not cleaning every leaf, alongs the majority has been done. 

Avoid using household sprays near your plants

Do you use reed diffusers? Do you also use air 'fresheners', spray disinfectants or polish in your home? If so then you'll need to keep these sprays away from your houseplants as the chemicals contained within them can harm your plants. For instance, a reed diffuser can of course still be used in your home with plants but remember to keep it clear of them – a metre will do. The chemicals in these products, and others can burn the leaves of your plants.

Plants clean our home’s air

In the vast literature out there about houseplants, you’ll find a lot of information covering your plant’s ability to remove certain toxins from your home’s air. When I first heard this, I was very sceptical. However, it is true. Most of this information stems from a NASA study that examined the benefits of houseplants in an enclosed space. This study demonstrated that some houseplants can remove chemicals such as formaldehyde, benzene, trichloroethylene, xylene and nitrogen oxides from the air. These substances are given off by various products in our home such as paints, lacquers, adhesives, rust preventers, thinners, petroleum-based products, and permanent magic markers. Before you run out of your home in fear, these substances are present in minute quantities in our homes and don’t harm us, not unless you’re living in an asbestos filled factory with a chemical spill problem. 

While such plants as the mother-in-law’s tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata), peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Devil's ivy (Epipremnum aureum) and many others do indeed filter these chemical from our homes. Simply opening a window or door or both would vastly and rapidly freshen our home’s air. One of the most fascinating aspects of growing plants inside is that their structures; their leaves, stems, roots and flowers all derive from the carbon dioxide that is present in our homes, perhaps even from our last breath. Removing this carbon also improves our home’s air but again opening windows and doors would be a more effective way to do so. 

Best medium to grow your houseplant

As houseplants are typically confined within a small container, they require additional care compared to their outdoor counterparts. One particular thing to watch out for is watering. As outdoor plants are, well outside they can take a lot of water where the water filters through various layers of soil. However, with indoor plants they have a very limited amount of soil before the water starts to build up, starving the roots of air. 

Improving drainage 

So here comes some special material called vermiculite, which is typically made of aluminium, iron and/or magnesium silicates (types of rock mineral). Or perlite that is made of expanded volcanic glass, which has been heated to 1,000°c (1,832°F) until it pops a bit like popcorn, greatly expanding its original volume. Perlite has a similar texture to that of Styrofoam. These materials are essentially made of little soft light rocks that aids with the drainage of a plant’s compost. The worst issue that houseplants can suffer from is a soggy bottom! 

One of the best potting mixtures for houseplants is one part vermiculite or perlite to two parts compost. Typically, most houseplants will come in compost, which is that dark brown substance, which is full of nutrients from decayed organic matter. When not using compost make sure it is sealed as pests can easily get into the bag and affect your plants. Peat-free compost is encouraged to be used over standard compost due to it being more sustainable for the planet. Peat originates from peat bogs and is a result of thousands of years of dead plant matter building up to produce a metre of peat. This is then dug up, devastating the local ecology. Peat-free compost is produced by composting decaying organic matter such as leftover food and plant parts. I should warn you that desert growing plants i.e., cacti and succulents would require a sandy medium rather than a compost-based one due to it holding onto less water. 

Make your own organic compost

One great way of reducing the environmental impact from your houseplants is to create your very own compost. Don’t worry, it's straightforward. All you need is a small area in your garden and to collect certain food scraps (listed below). As a broad guide you can follow the below steps to create a nutrient-rich compost for your non-desert loving plants.

Find a quiet area of your garden and ensure the compost heap is on bare soil. This encourages soil dwelling life to help break down your food scraps into compost. Typically, a compost heap is surrounded by a wooden structure (slatted fence) to hold it together. After you have built your heap:

● Place straw or twigs at the bottom for drainage.

● Add compost materials in ‘wet’ (food scraps and plastic-free tea bags) and ‘dry’ (grass clippings and straw) layers.

● Add green manure (see ‘Make your own organic fertiliser for your houseplant’) and ensure the pile is kept damp. The use of a cover helps retain moisture.

● Finally, turn your compost layer, using a fork every couple of weeks to ensure air gets into the mixture, which helps with the decomposing process. At this stage you can add in your waste at the top of the pile and give it a quick mix.

● Within 6 months you’ll be left with a lovely dark brown fluffy compost ready for your plants. 

After you have created your compost, you’ll need to quarantine it within a container to ensure no contaminants get into your home. When collecting your compost, have a look through for insects such as worms and any other wanted things. After about one week of isolation, you can now use it for your houseplants.

Items to make good compost

● Fruit and vegetable scraps

● Flowers and leaves

● Coffee grounds or plastic-free tea bags

● Grass clippings

● Straw or hay from pets

Items not to include in your heap

● Meat or bones

● Pet manure

● Perennial weeds

● Banana or citrus peels

● Hard woody plant material

How to water your houseplants

Within the wealth of knowledge on keeping houseplants, you’ll find extensive chapters and notes on watering. You’ll find apps helping you to keep track of their watering regimes, and hint and tips videos via social media. All of which can contradict each other. However, the rule of thumb that has kept my plants healthy is to water little and often. Knowing your environment also helps, for instance if your houseplants are on a south-facing windowsill in full sunlight they're going to need more water compared to a plant kept on a semi-shade north-facing windowsill. Keeping your houseplants near radiators will also increase their need for water.

I always keep to the ‘weigh it and/or finger it’ method to see if one of my houseplants needs water. Generally speaking, when lifting your houseplant if it is light it needs water (dry soil tends to be light) if heavy it’s fine. This isn’t a fool proof method so if you’re not sure you can move onto the second part, finger it. Place your finger into the top 5 cm (2”) of the soil in your plant pot to see if it is dry. If so, give your plant a bit of water, ensuring that there’s no standing water left in the decorative pot. Generally, water the bottom of your plant where the soil is. Try not to water from above as this may make your plants more susceptible to mould. However, if you do water from above water evenly across the surface. Moreover, keep in mind that the upper part of the soil will dry faster than the bottom part. Simply knowing your environment and when your plant typically gets dry is your best mantra. Keep to these easy-to-follow steps and your houseplants will be just fine.

Watering houseplants can be tricky but using a long-spout watering can, can make your life much easier. I tend to under-water my plants as I know the most common mistake to make is to over-water them. I find this sort of watering can be a lifesaver as it delivers low amounts of water at a time. I used a large jug filled with water collected from my water butt to decant into my little watering can. When collecting water ensure that it is lukewarm as freezing cold water can harm plant roots. Cooled boiled tap water is fine to use. Remember water little and often. Another thing to remember is that the larger, more leafier the plant the more water it will require. The smaller less leafy plants will not require as much.

The problem of using tap water

Try to avoid tap water when watering your houseplant. Of course, this depends on where you are. For me I live in the South of England which has very hard water, containing high levels of minerals. Tap water in other parts of Europe such as Northern Scandinavia contain far fewer of these minerals. When I mention minerals, I'm referring to various salts such as chlorine and fluorine that plants, outdoor and indoor cannot process. Instead, plants accumulate the salts within tap water on their leaves as a white powder, which will be firmly stuck to leaves a bit like limescale on a shower screen, especially if you water your houseplants in a shower like in some viral videos.

Ideally use rainwater or filtered non-carbonated bottled water found in shops (cheapest will do). In the case where tap water is the only option, it won’t harm the plant but will make it potentially less attractive. You can try to wipe or rinse these limescale-like marked (depending on sensitivity) leaves with filtered or rain water. This can help to remove these marks. However, the salts that cause these marks are generally embedded within the leaf. Cooled boiled tap water is much better than fresh tap water as boiling for 15 mins releases the chloride (most harmful to plants) found in tap water. However, boiling doesn’t release the fluoride making this option less effective than rain or filtered water.

Rainwater can easily be collected using a large plastic or metal container attached to your drain pipes. You can buy them from most DIY shops or garden centres. They’re also a great way of reducing your water bills (depending on the size), environmental footprint and boosting the health of your plants. It is not recommended to drink rainwater as it has not been treated. 

Growing houseplants hydroponically

Do you have one of your houseplants growing in water as a part of a display? If so, remember to regularly change the water, weekly to fortnightly with fresh rain or filtered water. Plant roots require oxygen to 'breathe' and old unchanged water can become stale, losing oxygen. Carbon dioxide from the air dissolves into the water increasing its pH. Additionally, microorganisms in the air start to grow in the water causing it to become cloudy in appearance. I certainly noticed this from caring for my dwarf umbrella plant (Schefflera arboricola) that was growing on a lava rock. 

How to treat under-watered plants

Have you gone on holiday or have you forgotten to water your plants? I certainly have done this. If so, you will notice that your houseplants will look rather thirsty by drooping their leaves. Sometimes this drooping can be very dramatic warning you of impending doom. Depending on how dry your plants are, you can use the dunk method to treat them. 

Simply get a bucket and fill with water, at this point it doesn’t matter if it's rain or tap water. Place the plant into the bucket and leave for up to 30 mins. After this amount of time your plant should have perked up. To test if the soil has absorbed enough water, lift the plant and its pot out of the water. It should now be much heavier. If so, drain the excess water and keep monitoring it for a couple more days. If not, keep the plant in a bucket for another 30 mins, and repeat. Most of the time if your plants are slightly droopy, they’ll be fine. This method can also be used for your outdoor plants. Some shops (usually non-specialist) will discount these droopy plants, making it an opportunity for you to save them at a much cheaper price. 

How to treat over-watered plants

Have you ever noticed an eggy smell around your houseplant? Try not to worry, your soil is too damp and is starting to rot the roots of your houseplant. Any plant enthusiast has made this mistake, it’s fairly common even amongst experts. Most plants require air to their roots so that they can breathe, over-watering prevents this. 

The key symptoms of over-watered plants includes yellowing of the leaves and dropping. The first thing to do when over-watering is to remove your plant out of its ceramic plant pot holder or other cover, and place it within a sink to drain. After leaving to drain for some time, gently squeeze the plant pot to further help the water drain. Then place onto an absorbent material such as paper towels, toilet paper or a tissue. Once the paper has become damp, replace until it no longer becomes damp. Place the plant back in its holder and don't water until the top couple of centimetres have become dry.

How to reduce water loss from your plant pots

To reduce the amount of evaporation from your houseplant's compost, try using horticultural grit (usually 2-3 mm; 1/16th-1/8th in). This grit is a great method of retaining moisture in the soil, plus it can reduce chances of insect infestations in the soil and it looks pretty. Typically, this grit is used for succulents and cacti bit can be used with larger plants. Additionally, you can get all sorts of colours, sizes and shapes. This grit offers plant enthusiasts the opportunity to become more creative with their urban jungles.

When to water your succulents and cacti

Watering your succulents and cacti can be an absolute nightmare. But wait you may now be asking yourself what is a succulent? Succulents have thick fleshy leaves that are adapted to storing water – think jade plant (Crassula ovata). Whereas, cacti are indeed a type of succulents but they lack leaves and generally have one stem bearing sharp thorns or spines – think barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii).  

Typical questions asked by new succulent and cacti parents include, when was the last time I watered this plant? Does it need watering or should I leave it again? Or you may even forget that your little cactus is alive and not an ornament on your shelf. Well, I have a trick that you can use. On looking at your succulent or cactus, can you see a mottled pattern on their leaves or stem? If so, this is an early indication that it requires watering, as I found out. This pattern will typically present on new growth but in some circumstances, it can present on older growth first. The best way to determine that this is the problem is to touch the leaves or stem, they will feel very bumpy – don’t attempt this if your plant has thorns or spikes.

To effectively water your succulents or cacti if they show a mottled texture, place them in a sink with enough rain or filtered water to reach a quart of the way up the pot. After leaving in water for about five minutes remove water and place the plant on the side to drain. Leave for several minutes until water has stopped draining away. Always water these plants from the bottom and not the top as this can encourage stem rot. The bevelling pattern should fade after a day or two, depending on species. Many desert living plants need to rapidly uptake water during downpours. In between these downpours, these plants use up their water supply and almost like a sponge deflate. On downpours they then reinflate to soak as much water as possible, and store it until the next.

Over-watering your cacti and succulent

Once over-watered, the roots and the base of the thick stems and leaves begin to rot, becoming very mushy to touch, and is sadly irreversible. Watering succulents, particularly stone plants (Lithops) can be very tricky, as I found in my experience. You can tell when your stone plant requires water when their leaves become less firm to touch. Do not water whilst growing new leaves (split middle). You should also aim to water these plants no more than two to three times a year. Their growing season is between May and July when watering is usually needed.

Misting your houseplants

The theory goes that if you mist (also known as spritz) your houseplants; using rain or filtered water to prevent white blotching caused by tap water, it will boost the humidity which is of particular benefit to those plants that original come from the rainforests such as the Swiss cheese plant (Monstera), elephant ear (Alocasia) and prayer plants (Maranta). Although some sources claim that misting your houseplants is ineffective, only benefiting houseplants for about 10-20 mins. However, it has been shown to be effective if you regularly mist your humid-loving plants to prevent their leaves from dying out. Generally speaking, the thinner the leaves the more moisture they need. If a humid-loving houseplant’s leaves dry out they will start to develop brown burnt looking edges, or in the case of prayer plants will also become transparent. I can certainly vouch for this method as one of my pinstripe prayer plant (Calathea ornata) was looking rather sorry for itself until I started to mist the leaves more often.

Clumping humid-loving plants together is also another way of boosting local humidity levels. Sometimes when plants get too much water or live in humid-rich places they release droplets of water (or guttate) through pores in their leaves. These droplets seep from their leaf tips and edges. If you notice this it is perfectly normal, Swiss Cheese Plants (Monstera delicious) and Philodendrons are the most prolific. If you have a plant that requires high humidity and doesn’t receive it, apart from dying it will just survive. Misting will boost new growth, once a day should be sufficient moving to twice a day on really sunny dry days. Don’t worry if you forget once in a while, it won’t hurt your houseplant. If you want to buy a plant mister ensure that it has a metal nozzle as plastic ones can easily wear down and break. 

Best method to support your climbing houseplants

Two words, totem poles. These poles are made from coconut coir or moss and are recommended as they are highly dynamic (compared to bamboo or plastic cans), meaning that you can use moss or florist pins to hold up the stems of your houseplants at any position. Additionally, totem poles can be bought in modules so that you can continually build upon them if needed. They also encourage aerial root growth that in turn boots the growth and leaf size of your climbing houseplants. In the wild these plants would naturally use surrounding trees to climb up towards the tree canopy. Totem poles also look great holding up your climbers in your urban jungle and can become a centrepiece.

These moss or florist pins can also be used to propagate plantlets of trailing houseplants. As well as producing more plants, this method can be used to fill out a plant's pot if you have a bare patch of soil.

New plant enthusiasts may not know but there are different methods used to tie up your houseplant. For hardener woody stems you can use plastic or metal clips. For softer stems you'll need to use natural twine as it is less harsh compared to clips. Remember not to tie too tightly as you can chafe the stem resulting in open wounds making the plant open to attack from insects and disease. For non-climbing houseplants I would use bamboo canes.

If you do use totems, whether made of moss or coir, keep them damp by adding in water from the top either from a mister or long-spout watering can. Keeping damp totem poles encourages new root growth particularly for Swiss cheese plants (Monstera), Philodendrons (Philodendron), satin pothos (Scindapsus) and Devil’s ivy (Epipremnum). When these plants produce aerial roots (other houseplants will also produce aerial roots such as the rubber plant or Ficus elastica), they’re able to consume more resources required for more, stronger growth. You will certainly see their leaf size enlarge. One issue commonly faced with plant enthusiasts who use these totems is that they dry out and then aerial roots die back (turning black) to only support the plant. This of course won’t harm your houseplants but may stunt their growth. If you cannot top up these poles with water you can simply use a mister around their aerial roots once or twice per day.

Climbing houseplants can of course be placed in a plant pot in order to trailing down a bookcase or shelf. Although climbers prefer climbing, they can adapt to trail. Though their leaves won’t grow as large as they would do on a totem pole. 

How to leave your houseplants

Are you going on holiday or a short get-a-way? Can’t find a suitable plant sitter? Well, here are some tips that I developed to keep my own houseplants alive without anyone. Please bear in mind that these tips can keep your houseplants alive for up to a maximum of two weeks in early summer conditions. 

First of all, your biggest problem will be running out of water. Identify which houseplants need the most amount of water and where the sunniest areas are. Move plants away from the sunniest areas to slightly darker areas or by partially closing blinds, this will keep plants in survival mode and reduce water loss.

Hours before you leave, water your plants to the maximum ensuring water has fully drained away. For houseplants that use the most amount of water, keep a little in the bottom of the pot or saucer. Covering the soil with tin foil is also a good method to use to help reduce evaporation from the soil whilst you’re away. The tin foil as well as retaining moisture also reflects light away. You can also use water globes to preserve water levels. Finally, you can encircle your houseplants on the floor or table with a bucket of water in the centre. Place one end of an absorbent rope into the bucket and then the other end into the pot of each houseplant. Another more expensive method would be to use a slow drip irrigation system. If not already clumped, bring your houseplants together to help maintain humidity levels.

If you have very young plantlings or seedlings, cover them with plastic to help keep water from escaping. Please bear in mind too much humidity will encourage rot. Admittedly, it’s a very tricky balance that you must maintain. 

Steps to take if your houseplant has been dropped or knocked 

Like many other plant enthusiasts, I too have managed to knock or drop a houseplant or two. If you take the following steps, it will help recover your beloved plant, like it has for me.

1. Take a deep breath, 9 out of 10 times your plant will be fine.

2. Gently pick up the plant, supporting it from the bottom.

3. Pick up the soil (or other media) and place back into the pot. Check to make sure that you’re not picking anything else up from the floor.

4. Assess your plant. Has it been damaged? If so, cut the damaged parts (leaves and small stems) off using scissors or secateurs. No damage, you’ve been lucky. This for me is the same feeling you get when you’ve dropped your mobile.

5. Is there any damage on the main stem? Has it snapped? Or has the majority of leaves been damaged? If so, you’ll need to keep a close eye on your plant. Generally speaking, still cut the damaged parts off, and your houseplant will start to branch out after a couple of weeks.

As a general rule of thumb, the broader the leaf the more damage from dropping is likely to occur. Cacti are generally the most resilient to being dropped or knocked because of their tough spiny stems. However, if your cactus’s main stem has been damaged it is unfortunately most likely too late.

Pruning your houseplant

Deal with weedy growth

Have you noticed that your houseplant is starting to become too tall? Or has it become top heavy? Or even looks a bit weedy? The vast majority of plants respond well to some pruning, which encourages them to produce more bushier growth. Although cutting a sizable chunk off your precious houseplant may bring some anxiety to new plant enthusiasts, it is a really effective way to improve their growth. The best way to tackle pruning is to cut small bits off at a time as you can stop at any moment. Whereas, if you take too much it cannot be undone. 

To prune effectively, always make a slanted cut just above the internode (bump on stem near a leaf), i.e., about 1 cm (1/2 in) above a leaf stalk. The internode is the location where plants can regenerate new leaves or stems as it is rich in a special hormone called auxin. We cut with a slant as a standard to prevent water from seeping into the wound that would culture fungi and bacterial infections. You could also cover the cut with non-scented wax to seal it.

From the material that you have pruned; you can also produce cuttings instead of composting it. To make baby plants, technically they would be clones of the mother or original plant, cut just below the leaf stem at an angle and place into fresh rainwater or filtered water. Within a week or two your cuttings will start to make roots.

Tidying your houseplants

Have you noticed that some of your plants have a few dead stems, leaves or branches? Then it's a good idea to remove that dead material by pruning it off. This keeps any material from rotting the base or core of the plant. It also helps to keep your houseplants looking neat and tidy.

First of all, you'll need to check if the targeted stem, stalk or branch isn't just dormant. You can do so by slightly bending the affected area. If brittle it is dead, if flexible it is more likely to live. To further check, you can make a small cut on the area. If green or whitish-yellow then it's a live, if brown is dead. Once you have confirmed the affected area is dead then cut at the base of the plant or at the junction where the next living areas are. Make a slanted cut to ensure water flows off the cut and does not accumulate. The above guidance on dealing with weedy growth and tidying your plants up can also be applied to outdoor plants. 

'Deadheading’ a flower that has naturally finished its life-cycle, whether it has been pollinated or not encourages your plants to produce more flowers. Many gardeners already know this particularly with their annual bedding plants. Remove deadheads at the point where the flower stalk meets the stem.

Ripping off deadheads instead of cutting them may damage your plants and make them vulnerable to various diseases. Removing dead heads tricks plants into thinking that they are under insect attack. This then induces more flowering as they simply want to produce seed. Another method to increase flower growth is to encourage competition amongst plants by planting them close to each other, which works really well for small display plants.

Sunlight and your houseplants

Defining light levels

As you read through the care instructions for your houseplants, you would have come across a few descriptions of how much sunlight you should give your plant. From ‘bright indirect sunlight’ to ‘low light’, these terms can be quite unclear. Sometimes the term ‘low light’ can even mislead people into thinking that they can grow that plant within a dark hallway, where you can barely see without using artificial light. I have defined these terms to help you further understand what they actually mean.

● Bright direct sunlight (≥3,000 lux) – on south facing windowsill, conservatory or greenhouse without any filter (i.e., blinds). Typically, cacti and succulents grow best in these areas. 

● Bright indirect sunlight (1,500-2,999 lux) – bright sunlight that does not directly make contact with the leaves of your houseplant or bright direct sunlight with a filter. For example, plant on a shelf with a south facing window opposite. Many shrubby houseplants prefer to grow in this light level. 

● Medium indirect sunlight (751-1,499 lux) – essentially a shady area next to a sunny spot. Smaller shrubby houseplants and climbers/trailers prefer this level of sunlight.

● Low indirect sunlight (≤750 lux) – shady area of house that still receives some sunlight or north facing windowsill. Generally, ferns prefer to grow in low levels of light but plants under ‘medium indirect sunlight’ can also be grown in low light.

Plants get sunburnt too

Yes, plants can get sunburn or 'scorched' from too much exposure to ultraviolet light. This scorching presents itself as dried out brown blotches on leaf edges. To prevent scorching, move your houseplants to more of a shady area of your home. Scorched areas will not recover but you can prevent it from spreading. Scorching can also happen to shade-loving houseplants that have been placed in an area that is too bright for them or if you have recently moved a plant from a low light place to a high light place. After you have moved your affected houseplant, remove severely burnt leaves. The plant will recover in time.

Fading variegated foliage 

Have you noticed that the variegated foliage on some of your plants has started to fade? If one of your variegated houseplants has started to lose its appeal then it is in an area that is too shady. Houseplants and outdoor plants with variegation require brighter than their non-variegated counterparts as they don't contain as much green energy making stuff (chlorophyll) needed for their growth. Move your variegated plant into a sunnier position and within a few weeks it will return. In fact, variegated foliage is caused by a genetic fault within the plant. This fault causes a loss of the energy making part of the plant. In sunny places it doesn’t cause too much harm to the plant. However, if in an already shaded area this could harm the plant, starving it of light.

Houseplant bending towards the light

Have you ever noticed that some of your houseplants are bending towards the light? This is your plant's natural phototrophic (photo = light, trophic = plant movement) response to maximise its access to sunlight. Essentially a plant's leaf is like a solar panel, where plants convert light into food. To maximise the energy leaves can generate, some plants can move their leaves towards a brighter source of light. If you keep your plants amongst one another or in low levels of light, plants will start to bend to reach the light. To fix this blending, regularly rotate your plants so that their growth becomes more even and straight. Move the bend away from the light source. Be aware that some plants will bend more rapidly than others such as Chinese money plant (Pilea peperomioides) and umbrella plants (Cyperus alternifolius).

Using supplementary lighting for your houseplant

In the dark winter days, houseplants don’t receive as much light as they require particularly if they are originally from the tropics. You may have seen several adverts or posts on social media covering supplementary LED lighting, which have a purple hue. Though giving our houseplants additional lighting through the winter does indeed benefit them, it doesn’t benefit them as much as you may think. These lights must give off special wavelengths that plants used to grow (red and blue) so they won’t benefit from your standard desk lamp. Instead, you need to purchase ‘LED growth lights’ (available on many online retailers), which emit the correct wavelengths that plants need to grow. Two to three hours a day will help get your botanical treasures through the winter. Think of these lights as a sort of life support, they will keep your plants alive but they won’t flourish. These lights must also be fairly close to the leaves of your houseplants (within 20 cm; 8”) in order to give them sufficient light. Additionally, as many people have commented from my video calls these lights give off a retro purple tinge. If you choose not to use these lights, your houseplants will go into dormancy and so may start to die if they do not get succulent light.

Getting the right temperature for your houseplants

It is very tempting to say that if this houseplant goes below a certain temperature it will die. And most literature does include temperature ranges for specific plants. While these ranges are correct, they are a mere guide. In general, houseplants do not like to go below 12°C (54°F), they much prefer to be kept at about 20°C (68°F). Most homes, particularly in the UK for example, are kept at about 21°C (70°F). Desert-loving plants can tolerate temperatures just above freezing if kept dry. This is due to huge temperature swings during the day and night time in deserts. So, if you live in a house that has a temperature more than 12°C  (54°F) you can keep a houseplant. If you do keep houseplants in a conservatory or greenhouse ensure that you either heat during cold days or move into your home. If the temperature temporarily goes below 12°C (54°F) - like if your heater breaks down, you can wrap your houseplants in some horticultural fleece to keep them warm during the night. However, this is only a temporary measure. The odd drop or spike will be fine for most plants to adapt to. If temperature go beyond 30°C (86°F) your plants will go into dormancy.

Reproducing your favourite houseplants 

Taking cuttings, a quick way to gain more plants

If you have a particular houseplant that you love, you may be able to take a cutting of it. Cuttings are a fast and efficient way of producing new plants. Although many may call them ‘plant babies’ they are actually clones and have the same genetics of the mother plant (the original plant). Many thousands of houseplants such as mother-in-law’s tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius) and the jade plant (Crassula) are a suitable candidate for easy-to-grow cuttings. Not all houseplants are suitable for taking cuttings such as many broadleaf plants and cacti. Generally, cacti produce smaller versions of themselves on their stem that you can pull off. There are a diverse range of methods available to plant enthusiasts to take cuttings. The key thing to do is to simply cut the correct part of a mother plant and place it into soil or water.

There is a caveat to the following steps as not all plants will respond well to them. These steps have been developed with climbing or trailing, shrubby and succulent houseplants in mind. For guidance on a specific plant please refer to the next chapter.

Cuttings to fill out a pot, climbers and trailers

Have noticed that some of your plants are becoming rather thinned out especially with your climbing or trailing houseplants? If so, you can fill out their pot by taking cuttings. Such climbing and trailing houseplants as the wandering Jew (Tradescantia zebrina) or Devil's ivy (Epipremnum aureum) are ideal for this method. Many climbing and trailing houseplants are actually made of several smaller plants grown together to fill out the pot. Some other types of houseplant including the false shamrock (Oxalis triangularis) and the sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica) are grown this way in order to make them bushier. These plants are naturally a bit leggy. 

Trimming your houseplants will encourage bushier sturdier growth (see: ‘Pruning your houseplant’). You can also use the waste material from your trimmings and turn them into more plants.

● Cut approximately 15-20 cm (6-8”) from the tip, cutting just above a node (bump on stem).  

● Remove the lower half of the leaves.

● Place into rain or filtered water.

● Leave for a couple of weeks and watch the roots grow.

● After a substantial amount of root growth (about 5-10 cm; 2-4” long) you’re ready to plant back into the pot.

● Using a small stick, seed dipper or chopping stick, make a small hole to plant your new cutting.

● Gently pack soil around cutting and water, making sure the young plant doesn’t dry out.

Cuttings from shrubby plants

Shrubby plants, those with woody stems can also be propagated by cuttings. Though not as readily as climbing or trailing plants. In fact, the bulk of plants growing in our gardens are done this way. Houseplants that are most suited to this kind of cutting include the umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), rubber plant (Ficus elastica) and the long-leaf fig (Ficus binnendijkii). 

● Use a sharp clean pair of secateurs to cut a piece of upper growth that is about 10-15 cm (4-6”) long. Ensure that you make a slanted cut.

● Remove the lower half of the leaves from the cutting.

● Dip cut end of cutting into water and then into root growth hormone powder (available from all good garden retailers). 

● Get a small stick or seed dipper and place into a well-drained compost. Then place cutting into the hole and cover. A 10 cm (4”) pot should be enough for five cuttings.

● Water pot outside, starting to pour just before the pot and gently swing until the compost is thoroughly wet.

● Place into an incubated or place a small see-through plastic bag over the pot to retain humidity. Keep in indirect sunlight. 

● Remove the bag after about two weeks. Roots should develop within a month. You can test if roots have developed by gently tugging on cutting. If there’s some resistance, you have new root growth. The more the resistance the more roots have grown. New growth on cuttings is a good indicator that they have taken. Plant up into a fresh pot when cuttings have taken. 

Cuttings from succulents

Many succulents can readily be reproduced by removing their leaves or stems as in the case of many jade plants (Crassula), or by beheading them as in the case of Echeveria. These strange and highly diverse plants make excellent cutting projects for both plant enthusiasts and children. Similar to many other easy-to-propagate plants, this is a neat survival strategy and a method to expand their reach in their environment when they cannot move. You don’t even need any sharp objects to remove their leaves for making cuttings. I have included some general guidance below.

For leaf cuttings

● To remove, grab a leaf segment and gently twist. Start from the bottom of your plant. 

● Place your severed leaves onto dry tissue paper for a couple of days to dry off the cut. Keep out of direct sunlight. This reduces the chances of rotting the end where roots will develop.

● Transfer your cuttings and place onto the surface of a sandy soil mixture (cacti compost) and water.

● Place your cuttings into indirect bright sunlight and mist once and a while.

● Within about a week you should start to notice new growth.

● When your cuttings develop new growth (about 2 cm/1” in length), plant them up.

There are other succulents as in the case of snake plants (Sansevieria) that will grow plantlets from simple leaf cut sections (5-10 cm; 2-8”). After cutting up a leaf, place directly onto a sandy media or directly into some water, and they will produce a plantlet or two at the base of the cuttings. 

For beheadings and stem cuttings

● Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut a succulent (from the base) that has become leggy or cut a piece of stem which is about 10-20 cm (4-6”) tall.

● Place cutting on dry tissue for a couple of days to dry the cuts. Keep out of direct sunlight.

● Remove the lower leaves, leaving the top portion of the head that is full of foliage.

● Place the head into a sandy soil mixture (cacti compost) and water.

● Small plantlets will grow around the base of your cutting. After plantlets are about 2 cm (1”) removed from stem and plant up.

Plants that naturally produce miniature copies of themselves 

There are a range of houseplants that will naturally produce miniature versions of themselves. These easy-to-produce plants can form stunning cascades such as the spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), beautiful decorations on their leaves including the mother-of-a-thousand (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), copies of themselves that merge from the soil as in the case of the Chinese money plant (Pilea peperomioides) and many other succulents and cacti including the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri). These plants as well as adding a bit of uniqueness to your home can, can also make a plant enthusiast very popular with their other plant-loving friends and family. Simply removing these miniature plantlets is straightforward but knowing when to is key. 

For plantlets forming on the leaves such as with the mother-of-a-thousand, you’ll need to wait until they have started to develop small roots (about 1-2 cm; up to 1”). Gently pick them off using tweezers and place onto the surface of well-draining compost. A sunny windowsill, warm conservatory or greenhouse will be a great nursery to keep them. If these plantlets come from the stem as in the case of spider plants, you’ll need to wait until they have developed roots of about 2-5 cm (1/2 - 2”). Simply cut their connection from the mother plant using a small pair of scissors. Then place directly into well-draining soil. Again, place in a well light area.

If these plantlets emerge from the soil, as in the case of the Chinese money plant, you'll need to wait until they reach a height of about 5 cm (2”) before you gently dig them out of their mother plant’s pot. You will need to break their connection with their mother plant. A small pair of scissors will suffice. 

Growing plants from seed

Not many houseplants produce seed when they grow in our homes. You also don’t see many seed producers include popular houseplants amongst their range. Moreover, there isn’t much information out there about growing them by seed. Common flowering houseplants (excluding bulbs; they’re difficult, requiring years to grow) that do readily produce seed include the chain-of-hearts (Ceropegia woodii), African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) and the peace lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii). When growing houseplants by seed they are often more suited to your particular home’s environment as they were raised in there. Unlike shop bought plants that are affected by the readjustment period, see ‘The readjustment period of your new houseplant’ for more information.

Traditionally plant enthusiasts have just wanted a quick and simple approach to getting their plants, either from fully grown plants to ease to grow cuttings. However, these days more plant enthusiasts want to challenge themselves on growing houseplants directly from seed. The more time you invest in raising your plants, the more satisfaction that you tend to feel when they flourish. You can also remove the seeds from many shop bought fruits such as lemons and oranges to grow your very own fruit tree, though this can be hard and depends on the quality of the fruit. I have written some basic steps to take to grow seeds collected from your houseplants or taken from a fruit. If you have bought some seeds (available from some online retailers) always follow the guidance on the seed packet for the best results.

Grow plants via fruit

● Simply remove the seeds from the fruit.

● Test their viability. To do this drop your seeds in a glass of water, the ones that sink are good to germinate. Disregard the ones that float. 

● Then add the seeds to well-draining compost and put them either in a seed incubator or cover with plastic to retain moisture levels. See ‘Grow plants via seed’ for more information. 

Grow plants via seeds

● Wait until the seeds have dried out.

● Collect the seeds and gently clean using rubbing alcohol. If the seeds are very small, skip this step.

● Get some well-draining compost and place it into a clean seed tray.

● Gently compact the soil down using a seed tray tamper, and place seeds onto the surface of the compost.

● Place a small layer of soil on top, about three times the thickness of the seed planted – a rough guess will do. If the seeds are very small or even dust-like, place on top of compost.

● Gently press down the upper layer of soil.

● Generously water outside using a watering can with rose. Start pouring water just before the seed tray and move across the tray in a gentle pendulum sway. This prevents uneven watering of the compost, which would disturb the seeds.

● Leave to drain and place within the seed incubator or wrap in a plastic layer to keep humidity levels up. Keep on a warm sunny windowsill, conservatory or greenhouse.

● Depending on the species of plant, seedlings should emerge after two to three weeks.

● Wait until seedlings are approximately 5-8 cm (2-3”) high before potting up into single 10 cm (4”) plastic pots. 

The steps above can also be applied to growing cacti by seed. However, there is a slight difference in that you place cacti seeds on the surface of your media and cover with a layer of vermiculite or fine grit. Please note that growing cacti by seed does take a while. For example, it can take up to a year to get a tiny plant. When your new cacti gets to about 5-10 cm (2-4”) transplant into standard cacti compost mixture and keep soil moist be free-draining. Leave no standing water in pot! See ‘When to water your succulents and cacti’ for more information.

Root division

Some houseplants can be propagated by dividing their roots. Such plants as the prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura), ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) and snake plants including the mother-in-law’s tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata) spread out via rhizomes making them ideal candidates for this method.

● Once you have selected your plant, remove it from its plastic plant pot. You may need to pat the bottom of the pot to release it.

● Gently loosen the root ball with your hands.

● From the outer layer of the plant, grab a small portion of root along with leaves and pull away from the mother plant. You may need to snap some roots; this is expected for this method. You can also use a sharp knife and cut the plant into quarters – depending on the size of your plant. Along you have a clump of roots with some leaves attached you’ll be fine.

● Ensure that the freshly removed roots are attached to the leaves by gently pulling. 

● Plant your new plant in fresh well-draining compost and water well.

● Monitor your new plant. When new growth appears at the base, your new plant is happy and healthy.

Key maintenance on your gardening tools

Not many people enjoy maintaining things but it is essential. If you do not keep up with the maintenance of your gardening tools you could be causing your plants harm when pruning or repotting them. 

What to generally look out for:

● Keep all tools free of dirt or old soil as this can transfer pests or disease from one plant to another.

● Ensure that any cutting tools are sharp for clean cuts. Use an angled fill to sharpen, like a kitchen knife.

● Ensure rust is removed from any cutting instrument. Again, fill off rust on blades or use various chemicals (even vinegar and water can help) to remove them from blades.

● Oil any hinges. Various oil sprays used for bikes and cars are available to ensure clean cuts.

● Thoroughly clean tools that hold water i.e., watering cans and misters to prevent bacterial or fungal growth.

● Tools should be kept in a dry and well-ventilated place.

Dealing with soil compaction

Do you know that your houseplants can suffer from soil compaction? As plants grow, they take up more space which is already limited. In the wild plants would start to come in contact with other plants, engaging in some sort of competition. After time your houseplant will require a new pot or some below ground maintenance. 

There are two approaches that can be used, either embrace the problem or avoid it, i.e., pot up into a larger pot or keep in the same pot if you don't have room, or prefer the plant to be maintained at a similar size. To keep within the same sized pot, you can help reduce compaction by poking a stick (I use a chopstick) into the soil. When jabbing the soil, keep away from the base of the plant (about 5 cm; 2”) and only undertake this up once every two months (depending on the plant). I do this particularly for my Chinese money plant (Pilea peperomioides) which grows a large number of roots. As well as reducing compaction, this technique can aid with aeration so that roots can 'breathe' more effectively.

When to transplant your houseplant

Generally, a distorted plastic plant pot is a strong indication that a plant needs to be either planted into a new, larger plant pot or to tease out the roots in order to trim them back. This will cause some stress to the plants. Though this may seem rather brutal it will keep the plant at a similar size – similar to trimming the upper parts (leaves and stems). Another method to use is to remove the plant from the pot and take small chunks out of the root ball (root-soil clump); don't be too cautious. After removing small chunks, you can tease off some of the outer roots to encourage new growth. Then replant the houseplant using new compost. Please note this method is not appropriate for tuberous or bulbous houseplants as they can be easily damaged. Eventually after several rounds of root trimming, your houseplant will need to be upgraded to a large plant pot.

Another key indication of a root bound plant is that the roots are starting to grow through the bottom of the plastic plant pot. You can check if your plant is root bound by gently lifting the plant out of its decorative pot to see if the roots are wrapped around themselves. If plants become too root bound, they will strangle themselves and die. You may also notice your houseplant may start to lift itself out of the pot due to the roots becoming larger on the bottom. When planting up, tease out the majority of roots, don't be afraid if some break, there’s plenty of root matter. 

Re-topping the soil that your houseplants grow in

When transplanting is too much you can re-top the soil, adding in additional nutrients from the new compost without disturbing the whole plant during a transplant. You can undertake this by removing the top fifth of the soil in the pot and replacing it with new fresh houseplant compost. 

How to transplant your houseplant

When you have decided to transplant your houseplant, you will need to select a new pot. When upgrading your plant pot, you should choose a pot that is the next size up. For example, if you have a plant in a 15 cm (6”) plastic pot you should aim for about 20 cm (8”) pot. On the whole, houseplants do not like being in too larger pot. Some plants that have prolific growth will require a much larger upgrade. Once you have your new pot you will need some fresh peat-free compost and some vermiculite, perlite or small grit/gravel to aid drainage. See ‘Best medium to grow your houseplant’ for more information. Some gardeners use broken pottery (from smashed plates or mugs) or ceramic in the bottom of plant pots for drainage. However, I would keep to some form of grit as broken pottery takes vital space for your plant. Additionally, you need to have a space somewhere in your home devoted to retaining these broken pieces.

● After you have collected all the necessary materials including a cover to protect your table or floor, remove your plant from its old pot. If root bound you may need to use a pair of scissors to cut open the plastic container. For spiny or thorny plants like cacti, gently wrap them using several layers of paper towels or a cloth to move them. 

● Once you have freed your plant, tease some of the outer roots apart using your hands, don’t worry if you break a few, there’s plenty of root matter.

● Get your new pot and place some fresh medium into the bottom.

● Place your plant into the centre, ensuring the bottom of your plant matches the top of the new pot. 

● Firm down your plant to make sure that its level. 

● Now fill the sides of the pot with your new medium. Ensure that you firm the medium down using your fingers. 

● Keep checking that your plant is in the centre and is level. In my experience most plants can start to move away from the centre, or become slightly wonky. 

● After you’ve done this, give your plant a water to help it settle down, and then place it back into its decorative pot.

Your plant may look a little sorry for itself several days afterwards, but this is similar to moving house so please bear with them, they will recover.  

Downgrading your houseplant 

If you have a houseplant that has been damaged or if you have bought a plant pot that is slightly smaller than expected, you can sometimes downgrade the size of your pot. This is of course dependent on the species of your plant. Downgrading isn’t ideal but it is an option for a plant enthusiast. Comparable to transplanting, you can only downgrade to the next size down. To downgrade, follow the steps as outlined in ‘How to transplant your houseplant’ but you will need to trim more roots off the outer surface and slightly compact the root ball of your plant using your hands. 

White growth in your plant pot

Have you ever noticed a white powdery substance growing on your houseplant's soil? This substance is a type of powdery mildew, usually the saprophytic fungus. This fungus is totally harmless to both people and plants, and is a direct result of exposed soil where fungal spores can land on and grow. 

Although white powdery mildew on soil is totally harmless it does look unsightly. To prevent this from happening you can cover the soil with a covering such as pebbles or a fine horticultural grit. If you don't want to cover the soil, then you can simply rub your fingers across the surface of the soil to remove, or if you prefer remove the top layer of soil and replace with fresh compost.

Fertilising your houseplants

One of the biggest mine fields in looking after houseplants, after watering, is when do I feed my plants? How do I know when my plant needs some food? Well firstly we don’t need to feed our plants at all. Plants as some people may know use the process of photosynthesis to convert light into carbon, in the form of sugar. This sugar is actually a plant’s food. Other than light, air, water and a place to grow plants don’t need much more. Except nutrients. Just like people, plants need their vitamins. What most people are referring to when using food is actually fertiliser – this is what well-designed marketing does. Talking about brands, some plant enthusiasts automatically assume the most expensive is the best. This is not true at all. Some own-brand products work just as well as the most expensive popular brands. I certainly keep to the mid-range level. 

Now that has been cleared up, when should people fertilise their plants and how often? This is totally dependent on the kind of plant you have. Some plants require a fair amount, whereas others only need minute amounts. As a general rule of thumb, I tend to give fertiliser to my houseplants once a week during the height of summer and once a fortnight during the spring. I do not add fertiliser during the autumn and winter. I recommend using a plant fertiliser which shows a high NPK ratio (typically 10:4:2); Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (major nutrients needed by all plants). If a plant food bottle doesn’t contain this ratio it may not be reliable. Always read the label for dosage amount as you don’t want to overload your houseplants, which could result in damage or death. 

As another rule of thumb, don't feed seedlings, cuttings or carnivorous plants. Seedlings and cuttings get all of their nutrients from the soil, and carnivorous plants get all of their nutrients from unlucky insects. If you have any plants growing in water, keep to minute amounts very infrequently. These plants are very vulnerable to nutrient overload. Remember that houseplants are in an unnatural environment, where they are stuck in a small pot rather than in their native habitat, and will need a top up of nutrients for their growth once and a while. I have included the general symptoms that plants give when they are low or missing some of the nutrients below. If you notice them, apply some fertiliser. Please note that any guidance for a specific plant will be discussed in the next chapter.

Essential nutrient deficiency symptoms 

● Nitrogen, N = yellow leaves with green veins.

● Phosphorus, P = purple-red discolouration on leaves.

● Potassium, K = yellow-brown 'burning' moving from tip.

Lesser-known nutrients deficiency symptoms

● Calcium, Ca = misshaped young growth with brown spots.

● Magnesium, Mg = lower leaf veins stay green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow.

● Sulphur, S = pale green leaves that turn yellowish-green.

● Iron, Fe = leaves become yellow with dark green veins. 

● Manganese, Mn = similar to Fe but with stunted growth and brown edges on leaves.

● Copper, Cu = pale green leaves with yellow burn-like marks.

● Zinc, Zn = stunted growth with bright yellowing leaves with green veins.

● Boron, B = stunted and distorted growth at tips.

● Molybdenum, Mo = similar to N but with stunted growth. 

Make your own organic fertiliser for your houseplant

Do you want to avoid non-organic fertilisers for your plants? Do you want to make your very own fertiliser? If so, then have you considered using ‘green manure’ through the leaves of comfrey plants (Symphytum officinale) or from nitrogen-fixing weeds (listed below).

This unassuming woodland plant is a hardy fast growing squat bunch of leaves, which accumulate lots of nutrients from deep within the soil. Once taken up, these nutrients (vital for plant growth) are stored in the leaves.

To get the nutrients from the leaves, you must first remove them and rot them in some water – until the water turns a shade of brown and has particular aroma. Keep this solution out of direct sunlight as it will start to smell worse. This leaches out the nutrients and forms what is known as a ‘green manure’. Before using on your beloved houseplants, you may want to filter out the bits to reduce the offensive odour. Typically add about (50 mL or 1.7 oz) to your watering can (500 mL; 1 pint) before applying. 

There are also many other fantastic examples that can be used as a green manure such as:

● Alfalfa (Medicago sativa)

● Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum)

● Red clover (Trifolium pratense)

● White clover (Trifolium repens)

● Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum)

● Broad beans (Vicia faba)

● Italian ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum)

● Mustard greens (Brassica juncea)

Pests and diseases common to houseplants 

One of the unintended consequences of creating your very own urban jungle is encouraging unwanted life. Fortunately, there aren’t too many pests or diseases that will affect your houseplants. Whereas, in the outdoor world they would be faced with many more. Numerous books and social media videos offer a range of advice on how to deal with them, and how to treat various diseases. However, the best course of action for pests is to remove them, and for disease to remove affected areas. The old saying prevention is better than cure certainly applies. Keep checking your plants to catch the problem before it gets worse. 

Plants don’t really have an immune system, especially not like us. The key defence mechanism of plants is to kill off affected areas, isolating the disease. You may have noticed brown and yellow spots or blotches on the leaves of your plants. This is a plant’s defence response. Many pests such as green fly can also spread diseases when they continually move onto their next victim. This is similar to mosquitoes spreading malaria. Before you start to worry about your botanical treasures, plants are very resilient against pests and diseases. Simply keeping your houseplants in good health; sufficient light, water and nutrients will strengthen their resilience. There are three key issues faced by plant enthusiasts: gnat flies, mould and greenflies, all of which will be discussed in more detail. 

One thing to consider when you introduce a new plant to your collection is that a new plant can introduce a pest or disease to your collection. I was affected by bringing back a problematic plant when I bought a fern suspended in a ball of moss. Unknowingly this moss was filled with black files which spread to my other ferns. To prevent this, isolate your new plants for up to a week to see if anything crawls out or something unusual materialises on its leaves. You don’t have to have full quarantine procedures with plastic sheets and gloves. Keeping your new plant away from your others will help, or if you have a spot in a heated greenhouse. From experience I would recommend not purchasing houseplants wrapped in moss as they are easy homes for flies. I will now take you through the most common pests and diseases that you may face whilst caring for your plants. For any specific plant issues please go to the next chapter.

Plants don’t like to be disturbed too much

Not all plant enthusiasts know this but houseplants can be affected by too much disturbance. A bit like you being packed into a hot overcrowded train, they get agitated! The tips of the leaves can become brown and dry. From personal experience, I have noticed this with my spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) that was developing brown tips. These brown tips were on the older growth. I hung my spider plant within a homemade macramé style hanging planter next to a door. The older leaves closest to the door were the brownest. If affected by disturbance move your plant to a quieter corner. Though it may take a while for the plant to recover. Note that brown tips tend not to spread after you have resolved the issue.

Plants don’t like draughts 

If you live in a draughty old house, you may have noticed that some of your plants have curly leaf edges. Additionally, the lower leaves may have become dry and crispy. This is the result of plants being affected by a constant cold breeze – you may feel the same way if you were placed in a draught area. To prevent this, move the plant or cover areas where the draught is coming from. Having a breeze or draught once and a while won’t affect houseplants. 

Biggest pest affecting houseplants

Have you ever noticed little black flies hovering around your houseplants? If so, they’re mostly likely gnats. Although these gnats are very annoying, they don’t harm your plants. They emerge from eggs in the soil and fly around in search of food. Unfortunately, there’s not much that you can do about them as sterilising the soil would reduce the soil’s ability to support your houseplant – a side effect from creating your very own ecosystem.

After they have emerged you can use a range of methods to catch them. Of course, if you see them, you can squish them, use fly paper, an electrical zapper or use apple wine cider traps. All of which avoid the use of pesticides in your homes. Finally, as I found out these black flies are more prevalent in the winter months where ventilation is reduced.

Dealing with the dreaded greenfly

Most plant enthusiast have experienced the wrath of green, white or pink flies, collectively known as aphids. These aphids latch onto a plant’s stem and suck the sugars flowing through a plant’s veins. They can also spread disease through their mouths by chomping on many different kinds of plants. These critters not only are an annoyance to plant enthusiasts but cause major losses to crop around the world. However, there are a range of methods to use to get rid of these common pests.

Obviously, chemical sprays will do the job (found in all good garden centres) but there are less environmentally damaging and cheaper methods to employ. I personally would want to avoid using chemical insecticide and fungicide sprays in my home. If your infestation is fairly minor, then you can simply run your fingers across the infected area to squash them all. Please bear in mind that then aphids sense movement they will drop to the ground (a survival strategy). If worse than you can use a low concentrated washing up liquid solution - 1 L (34 oz) of water to 5 mL (0.2 oz) washing up liquid to get rid of them. Oil-based solutions such as Neem seed oil (also known as white oil) to the above are also effective but use sparingly as washing up liquid and oil can build up on the leaves.

Treating Powdery Mildew

White powdery mildew or Erysiphe alphitoides (using its scientific name) is a common fungi that infects a wide range of plants. The fungi proliferate on new growth and are worse in damp conditions. The best treatment is to remove all majorly affected leaves and to spray using an organic fungicide, available in all good garden centres, which contains sulphur once a week. White discolouration will fade slightly as the infection is killed off. Leaf whitening is not reversible, you’ll need to wait until new growth develops until you can cut off these leaves.

Treating moulds

Houseplants can become vulnerable to various moulds (a type of fungi) and rot when too damp or if the local conditions are too humid. The spores of fungi surround us and cannot be eliminated. Plants that have been damaged or are not in the best of health are particularly vulnerable to mould. Moreover, plants grown in water are also vulnerable to mould. Most moulds that affect plants will have a white or black web-like fluff appearance, similar to damp in a bathroom. 

Depending on the severity, simply wiping off the mould as in the case of plants grown in water helps. Additionally, replacing the water and reducing the humidity by increasing aeration will help. It should be said that all houseplants can suffer from this easy to remove fungi. In the case of firmly stuck on fungi such as rust (orangey rust-like appearance), you will need to use an organic fungicide as they are hard to treat. If a plant is covered in hard to remove fungi, your plant is most likely too far gone. With this hard to remove fungi you will have to isolate your houseplant as soon as you notice it as it could spread. Not all houseplants are affected by this type of fungi but scented geraniums (Pelargonium limonium), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) and amaryllis (Hippeastrum × hortorum) are particularly resistant against them. 

Plants with spots or blotches on leaves 

It can be challenging to diagnose an issue when your plants are displaying various spots and blotches. After reading the below and you still cannot identify the issue, take some time to observe your plant and review its care. The best thing you can ultimately do, no matter the issue is to remove the affected areas.

Wet brown spots 

If you have noticed brown wet looking spots on your plant’s leaves, then this is most likely caused by bacterial leaf spot. As soon as you notice these spots, isolate your plant from others as it can spread. Remove all infected leaves. If the plant is covered in these spots, it is most likely too late. 

Brown or yellow spots

Does your houseplant have brown or yellow spots on the leaves which appear to be growing? If so, this is most probably one of many fungi referred to as Anthracnose. This isn’t harmful to your plant, just unsightly. To treat, cut off affected leaves. If you’re determined to remove these imperfections, you’ll need to use an organic fungicide. If your plant only has yellow spots surrounded by a halo, this is due to a type of fungi that attacks when you’ve typically over-watered your plant. Remove infected leaves and dry the soil out.

White to pale-yellow spots

If you have noticed white or pale-yellow spots dotted on the leaves of your houseplant, this is probably caused by using too cold of water or a cold draught. Plants prefer stable temperature so either warm the water that you are using (lukewarm boiled tap water is fine) or move your plant to a warmer area of your home.

Brown or black mushy blotches 

Does your houseplant have some brown or black mushy blotches on it? If so, this is caused by root rot. Root rot is caused by over-watering plants or from poor drainage. To treat, remove affected areas and drainage as much water from the soil as possible using dry paper towels (see ‘How to treat overwatered plants’). Once you’ve removed as much water as you can, you’ll need to replace some of the compost with fresh stuff including some grit for drainage. 

Mealybugs and Scale Bugs

Both mealybugs and scale bugs are large sap sucking insects, which latch onto the fleshy new growth of your houseplants to feed. Though not so common amongst houseplants, these pests can infect them if you leave them outside in the summer or frequently leave doors or windows wide open. They can also come from freshly picked flowers from your garden or contaminated compost. These bugs generally cause stunted and deformed growth. To treat plants that have either of these pests, you need to remove them and clean the infected areas that remain. 

Mealybugs are small brown and cream striped insects that produce a cotton-like fluff. The first thing to do is to quarantine the infected plant from others as these bugs can easily spread. The easiest and most effective method to rid your houseplant of these pests is to remove them using a damp cotton pad, and to clean the affected areas with a small bit of rubbing alcohol (in the form of standard hand sanitiser) or Neem seed oil. This will be sufficient to kill off any remaining mealybugs. After treatment, monitor your plant for any returning mealybugs. If after a couple of days, they do not return, take the plant out of quarantine.  

Scale bugs look like a hazel brown bumps clustered on the stem of infected plants. The first thing to do is to isolate the plant and try to remove the scale bugs. Some bugs will be removed readily where others will not. After removing all the bugs that you can, use rubbing alcohol to sterilise the affected area. The rubbing alcohol will also kill off any remaining bugs after several treatments. After all bugs have been removed, your houseplant can return to its original place. Please note that these bugs can leave small suction cup-like marks.

Thrips and Red Spider Mite

These tiny red creatures can be rather disheartening when noticed, as they can be very tricky to remove. They are fast spreading and have a short life cycle. These insects can also fly making them challenging to isolate from other plants. Thrips and red spider mites come from our gardens so if you keep your houseplants outside over the summer you could be putting them at risk. These insects are generally found on the underside of your houseplant’s leaves. 

Effects of thrip infestation includes brown strips, faded or splotchy pale-coloured leaves and the unexpected dropping of leaves. Thrips extract the sap of plants directly from the veins of leaves. The first thing to do is to quarantine the infected plant. Remove the worst affected areas, making sure to cover the area to prevent thrips from falling off. Next use lukewarm water to rinse all leaves. The thrips will fall off quite easily. Using damp cotton pads can also help. If the infestation is more severe, a mild watery washing up liquid mix can be used on leaves (see ‘Dealing with the dreaded greenfly’) or the use of Neem seed oil. Another indirect method to help would be to place sticky fly traps or electric zappers around your home to capture any flying bugs.

Red spider mites look like tiny white spiders that create small webs on new growth. Interestingly these pests can become more of a problem during the winter. They prefer to reside in dry and warm homes. Unfortunately, red spider mites are one of the worst pests known to affect houseplants. They extract the sap of young growth, leaving them to dry and curl up. Quarantine the infected plant, and cut off the worse affected areas. Then wash the rest of the affected areas using a mild watery washing up liquid mixture. A cotton pad also helps. You should start to see these tiny red spiders disappear. As new growth is affected your houseplant may take some time to regrow. As a precautionary measure regularly misting helps to deter red spider mites from getting a foothold. 

Please note that using washing up liquid on plants for prolonged periods will damage them. 

Pets and your plants

If you have a pet, especially a dog or cat you may be worried about buying certain houseplants. In some books and social media videos you may have noticed that they mention the words pet friendly or toxic. Using the word toxic would reasonably put you off buying that particular houseplant. Some plants are well-known to be harmful to certain animals, for instance lilies and aloes are harmful to cats.

Houseplants will generally only affect your pets if they are consumed. This includes us as well so don’t go eating your plants when bored. When the word toxin is used, it can refer to anything from immediate death to slight stomach upset – quite vague sometimes! However, not all pets will consume or munch on your plants but if they do, you must be mindful of what plants will cause harm or which ones will cause slight discomfort. After all, if common houseplants were that dangerous or if pet owners didn’t consider their choice of plant, more media outlets would report on the epidemic of killer houseplants. I have included a short description on Pet and child suitability within the next chapter for each houseplant listed. 

A final word

When considering a houseplant, you may feel some anxiety about its care. This is perfectly normal; I feel this way when I encounter an unfamiliar plant. It would be fantastic if they would almost be frozen in time, remaining the same when they’re at their best. However, houseplants are living things and come with imperfections and have care needs. 

Many books, articles and social media videos contain a wealth of knowledge on how to care for your houseplants. Unfortunately, this can be very overwhelming and confusing where advice starts to conflict. My best advice that I can offer as a plant expert is to get to know your plant. Monitor it and see when the soil usually dries out, if the leaves start to droop or start showing signs of distress through discolouration or marks. As well as getting to know your houseplant, use reliable sources of information. I’m not asking you to stop watching fun social media videos but be critical when it comes to more unusual or sensational claims. 

When speaking to other plant enthusiasts, they also get quite anxious when thinking about watering, feeding their plants and when to transplant. I always remind them that plants are hardy forms of life that have been around well before humans evolved. Plants will also adapt to conditions that aren’t precisely within their tolerance level. Plants are awesome things to keep in our homes, and have been shown to improve our mental wellbeing. Most plant enthusiasts tend to over care for their plants, which can result in a plant's death typically through over-watering, over-feeding or over-enthusiastic attention. Plants tend to grow better when they are slightly neglected. As long as they receive sufficient light, water and nutrients they’ll be fine.  

Trial and error is sometimes the best method to use and this definitely applies to houseplants. So don’t let care put you off buying or keeping your botanical treasures. This after all is my mantra and I have learnt so much about houseplants using this method. As well as homing in my plant husbandry skills, I have learnt what plants I don’t get on with. Sometimes failure happens and people don’t tend to want to admit defeat, but it is OK. If you’re a complete novice when it comes to plants, then try an easy and most commonly available plant to start with and then build up to something with more complex needs. This is how I started out. I started my collection with a hardy fast growing paper plant (Fatsia japonica) and now I have delved into orchids and elephant’s ears (Alocasia). 

In this chapter I have endeavoured to create a helpful easy-to-follow guide that you can pick up as a reference point. We have covered a range of topics such as watering, compost, transplanting, nutrients, plant propagation, and how to deal with common pests and diseases. Now that you have learnt how to care for your houseplants, now let’s see what houseplants are out there that you may be interested in.

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