How to Take a Cutting

Taking a cutting is a straightforward process where a small section of a parent plant is removed to encourage it to grow into an independent plant. Since most cuttings lack a root system, they are vulnerable to dehydration if not properly cared for. They require a moist medium, but it must not be too wet to avoid rotting. Suitable media include soil, perlite, vermiculite, coir, rock wool, expanded clay pellets, and sometimes even water, provided conditions are ideal. The environment should be kept humid, typically by covering the cuttings with a plastic sheet or placing them in a humid, confined space. Partial shade should also be provided to prevent the cuttings from drying out.

After placing the cuttings in the medium, they should be watered thoroughly with a fine mist, using a nozzle sprayer or spray bottle. The medium should be allowed to nearly dry out before misting again, maintaining moisture without becoming waterlogged. A fine mist helps avoid disturbing the cuttings.

Correct cutting technique

The cutting must be taken at the appropriate time: in temperate climates, softwood cuttings are best taken in spring, while hardwood cuttings should be taken in winter. The size and amount of foliage are also important; for example, softwood stem cuttings should be 5–15 cm long, while hardwood cuttings should be 20–25 cm long. For softwood cuttings, remove two-thirds of the foliage, while for hardwood cuttings, complete foliage removal is necessary.

Rooting hormones can be used to encourage root development, especially for species that are difficult to propagate. Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) is a commonly used hormone, available as a powder, liquid, or gel. It can be applied to the cut end of the cutting or as a foliar spray. Natural alternatives include soaking yellow-tipped shoots of weeping willow or preparing a tea from willow bark, both of which should be soaked for 24 hours before use. Honey, while not containing plant hormones, can also be an effective rooting agent. Some plants, such as succulents, can root easily in water, while others require more controlled conditions.

Types of cuttings

Various plant parts can be used for propagation, including:

1. Stem Cuttings: A piece of stem, including at least one leaf node, is buried in the soil to produce new roots.

2. Root Cuttings: A section of root is buried just below the soil surface to produce new shoots.

3. Scion Cuttings: Dormant, woody twigs are used.

4. Eye Cuttings: Pieces of stalk with one or more eyes, either foliated or defoliated.

5. Leaf Cuttings: A leaf placed on moist soil develops both new stems and roots. Some leaves may produce multiple new plants, especially if leaf veins are cut.

Although some species like willow, blackberry, and pelargoniums can grow from cuttings placed directly in moist soil, most require a humid, warm, partially shaded environment. Difficult species may need cooler air and warmer soil, and choosing the appropriate cutting type for the plant species increases the chances of success.

The right soil for cuttings

The soil for cuttings may need certain additives to ensure optimal conditions:

1. Chalk: To adjust the pH to 6-6.5.

2. Organic Matter/Humus: To provide nutrients, but in minimal amounts.

3. Sand or Gravel: To improve water permeability.

Providing the Right Humidity

Covering cuttings with semi-transparent plastic helps maintain soil moisture and humidity. The soil and cuttings should be kept moist but not overly wet, and occasional aeration is necessary to prevent mould formation.

Stem Cuttings or Truncheons

In temperate regions, stem cuttings can be taken from both softwood and hardwood, with distinct practices for each. Softwood cuttings, taken in spring, should be 5–15 cm long and are typically planted above ground. Hardwood cuttings, taken in winter, should be 20–25 cm long and are often submerged in soil. Multiple hardwood cuttings can be bound together.

Scaling and Twin-Scaling

Twin-scaling is used to increase bulbs that propagate slowly or to accelerate the production of desirable cultivars. This technique can multiply one bulb into 16 to 32 or more viable bulbs within a few years, compared to natural doubling. The process involves sterilising the bulb, cutting it into segments (chips), and then further dividing these into pairs of scales. These twin-scales are treated with fungicide, mixed with moist, sterile vermiculite, and left in a warm, dark place until new bulblets form. Some species may require alternating warm and cool periods to stimulate growth. The new bulbs are then planted in compost and allowed to grow until they reach a suitable size, often taking several years to flower, though some, like Galanthus, may flower in their first year.